Put "Moulin" in front of the restaurant's name and you've got the gist of the decor. Dramatic crimson-velvet headboards fan out along wall-side tables. Votives and brass add to the red and gold color scheme--even the bathroom sink is vermillion. Black marble hugs the wall in various sculptural forms.

The food makes a strong statement, too. Garlic bathes tutorojo, an open-faced empanada with thick portobello mushrooms and delectable balsamic, olive and tomato-dressed chicken. The ajo blanco soup is an Andalusian treat: fresh, frothy almond milk with diced mangos, green grapes and avocado. Entremeses, a platter of ham, manchego cheese and sardines is high-quality with a high price. Paella Valenciana and a host of fish, fowl, pork and game dishes are all derived from the Spanish chef's native knowledge. Homemade flan is substantial and tasty.